Yosemite Rock Climbing Trips
Professional Climbing Guides Institute
- PCGI
- Top-Rope Guide
- Lead Guide
- Multi-Pitch Guide
- Rescue
- Calendar
Multi-Pitch Guide Training
The Multi-Pitch 
Guides Training (MPGT) is designed to be an introduction of guiding techniques common to non-glaciated grade III and under multi-pitch rock climbs, which often include descents and approaches where technical proficiency is paramount to safety.
It is important to understand that the MPGT is designed to focus on guiding skills necessary to competently navigate fifth class grade III and under multi-pitch rock climbing terrain, while providing a safe and rewarding experience for guided clients. The goal is that students will walk away from the course having learned technical guiding skills that will provide for safe, smooth and efficient upward progress on grade III and under multi-pitch rock climbs, as well as on technical descents and scrambles most commonly found in the majority of climbing areas of the U.S.A. Another primary goal of this training is to provide a forum of open ideas while presenting practical guiding skill standards. Aspiring or professional guides can then learn a variety of technical guiding skills and knowledge through discussion, demonstration and practice.
The MPGT course involves approaches, route finding, gear management issues as well as technical descents and largely will consist of technical, hands on guide training. Climbing will be done on routes up to and including grade III. Please come physically prepared for this type of climbing as the days will usually consists of some discussion on guide concerns and the remainder practicing guiding while focusing on acquiring new skills and understanding their utility.
Each day should be approached as a learning experience, techniques employed by your mentors may vary from that of the students as well as other instructors, as climbing situations are dynamic so must our tools, safety is the bottom line and PCGI approved independent provider mentors realize there are numerous means to that end.
- MPGT - Prerequisites:
- 1) Ability to comfortably lead traditional and sport 5.9 single-pitch rock climbs
- 2) Own and bring appropriate ropes and gear/rack for leading single-pitch rock climbs (see gear list for more information)
- 3) Experience with and ability to build solid climbing anchors with traditional climbing gear, i.e. stoppers, cams, hexes, tri-cams, etc.
- 4) Climbing experience of at least 3 years.
- 5) Completed rescue training via the SPGT or via the separate RT (or completed AMGA Rock Instructor or Rock Guide Course)
- 6) Working knowledge of the following knots and hitches
- a. Clove hitch
- b. Munter hitch and Munter mule
- c. Figure eight and overhand on bite
- d. Friction hitches
- e. Figure eight follow through
- f. Bowline
- g. Double figure eight and overhand
- h. Double fisherman
Note: Prerequisites are required and your mentors will take these seriously. It is up to the individual mentors, but anyone who cannot demonstrate mastery of the prerequisites may be told to leave the course with no refund.